At first, I wondered if dieci (the Italian word for ten), referred to the number of seats in this tiny Italian restaurant with a chef from Japan (Jun Ohta). Then, of course I realized that it was the street number. Fortunately, my friend and I arrived early and snagged one of the few tables.
The menu featured a small number of appetizers like bruschetta with chicken livers or cherry tomatoes, Italian cured meats, and salads. The special was a wonderful plate of three piping hot, pan-fried sardines, served whole with a side of peppered endive in a light vinaigrette. I have a thing about not being able to eat the heads, but I finished every bite from jaw to tail. "That's the perfect temperature for a strong-tasting fish," noted my friend. She had craved the cherry tomato bruschetta, but as they were unavailable, she ordered a salad with peach halves, crunchy toasted pecans, greens and feta. Peaches with feta... what a marvelous idea!
Mains included fried organic chicken and hanger steak, but we were in the mood for pasta. My friend ordered the lamb bolognese over shells. The ground lamb was tender and not at all gamy, and it was accented with a lot of pecorino (always good in my book). My pasta was an ode to summer: fresh fettucini with sweet corn in an intense tomato sauce with garlic slivers. The portion was moderate - I was glad I'd ordered an appetizer, and later became *extremely* glad for dessert!
There was no more gelato, but there was a mixed berries millefeuille to continue the celebration of late summer. Strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and a good bit of not-overly-sweet vanilla custard were sandwiched between sugar-dusted crunchy dough. We left sated but not stuffed. The bill, including two glasses of Pinot Grigio and one cup of coffee, was only $60 (not including tax and tip). So we'll be able to visit dieci more times!
228E East 10th St., (212) 397-9545.
Tuesday, September 18, 2007
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Sweets News
Yesterday, I was over at Kyotofu for my weekly maple muffin fix. Suddenly, co-owner Nicole came out with a fluffy green cookie in the shape of a six-petaled flower. "Try this," she said, "it's made with Tafu matcha, which is the best matcha I've ever had. This cookie is one of the treats we'll be baking for the new Tafu tea shop on 51st and Lexington. The shop opens on September 21st."
I don't know about you, but I'm super-excited about this! (Note: Sadly, the Tafu shop closed in Spring 2009. It will be missed.)
I don't know about you, but I'm super-excited about this! (Note: Sadly, the Tafu shop closed in Spring 2009. It will be missed.)
Saturday, September 08, 2007
Fiorini: An Instant Classic
Fiorini, a ten-day-old Italian restaurant, is already a Midtown institution. This is due to the talents of renowned restaurateur Lello Arpaia, who brings years of experience and a deep love of traditional Italian food to the airy, wood-ceilinged space. Arpaia has installed Chef Ermino Conte, a native of Taranto, Italy, from his popular Cellini restaurant.
Conte turns out everything from risotto to tiramisu, and his cuisine is both delicate and hearty. He makes the lightest baba you're likely to try ("You can barely even find this in Naples anymore, it's always like lead," says Arpaia). His little saffron-accented arancini melt in one's mouth. Tonight, as I raked my spoon across the vestiges of a citrusy mascarpone mousse, I wished I could start again from the beginning...
which beginning consisted of: three breadcrumbed, grilled cones of calamari; balsamic-drizzled tuna carpaccio; two silky burrata domes on butter lettuce with halved cherry tomatoes; rich, creamy porcini risotto with a touch of truffle and white wine ("I've been making risotto for twenty years," Conte later informed us); a salad with slices of crunchy raw artichoke; and grilled octopus. All of this was accompanied by oniony foccaccia and a bottle of 2000 Ferrari-Carano Tresor Reserve.
But as everything was quite light, we had ample room for all that was to follow. Two of us ordered the pesce spada livornese: a thick piece of moist, baked swordfish topped with a tangy stew of capers, tomatoes and olives, served with broccoli rape and a small slice of potato. Others enjoyed the pan-seared tuna with caramelized pearl onions, spinach, golden raisins and red peppers, the grilled salmon with apple mustard and a nice-sized portion of veal milanese.
At this point, the lights suddenly went out. I wondered if there had been an electrical short, but then a procession of waiters began to sing "Happy Birthday." The lights flickered on and off, and a dessert was ceremoniously delivered to a nearby table.
With a little less ceremony, we then received our desserts, which included the aforementioned light-as-air baba (a must), ricotta cheesecake, strawberry Cabernet sorbet, and a pyramid of Sicilian mascarpone mousse (this looked like a birthday cake in itself, with its lemon and lime zest and red and blue coulis). As we sipped our cappuccinos, someone in our party reminisced with Arpaia about his beloved Lello and Scarlatti eateries, which closed down in the early '90s. I never had the opportunity to dine at either, but I'm certainly glad to have dined at Fiorini.
Fiorini: 209 East 56th St., (212) 308-0830. Get there while you can still get in!
Conte turns out everything from risotto to tiramisu, and his cuisine is both delicate and hearty. He makes the lightest baba you're likely to try ("You can barely even find this in Naples anymore, it's always like lead," says Arpaia). His little saffron-accented arancini melt in one's mouth. Tonight, as I raked my spoon across the vestiges of a citrusy mascarpone mousse, I wished I could start again from the beginning...
which beginning consisted of: three breadcrumbed, grilled cones of calamari; balsamic-drizzled tuna carpaccio; two silky burrata domes on butter lettuce with halved cherry tomatoes; rich, creamy porcini risotto with a touch of truffle and white wine ("I've been making risotto for twenty years," Conte later informed us); a salad with slices of crunchy raw artichoke; and grilled octopus. All of this was accompanied by oniony foccaccia and a bottle of 2000 Ferrari-Carano Tresor Reserve.
But as everything was quite light, we had ample room for all that was to follow. Two of us ordered the pesce spada livornese: a thick piece of moist, baked swordfish topped with a tangy stew of capers, tomatoes and olives, served with broccoli rape and a small slice of potato. Others enjoyed the pan-seared tuna with caramelized pearl onions, spinach, golden raisins and red peppers, the grilled salmon with apple mustard and a nice-sized portion of veal milanese.
At this point, the lights suddenly went out. I wondered if there had been an electrical short, but then a procession of waiters began to sing "Happy Birthday." The lights flickered on and off, and a dessert was ceremoniously delivered to a nearby table.
With a little less ceremony, we then received our desserts, which included the aforementioned light-as-air baba (a must), ricotta cheesecake, strawberry Cabernet sorbet, and a pyramid of Sicilian mascarpone mousse (this looked like a birthday cake in itself, with its lemon and lime zest and red and blue coulis). As we sipped our cappuccinos, someone in our party reminisced with Arpaia about his beloved Lello and Scarlatti eateries, which closed down in the early '90s. I never had the opportunity to dine at either, but I'm certainly glad to have dined at Fiorini.
Fiorini: 209 East 56th St., (212) 308-0830. Get there while you can still get in!
Monday, September 03, 2007
The US Open 2007
I always feel rather guilty at the US Open. Yet another summer has passed without my joining a gym. The young and vigorous run around the tennis court while my stomach growls for lunch. Could I possibly be burning any calories following the ball with my eyes?
At least this year, I can drown my guilt in the mojitos at the perfectly serviceable Mojito Bar & Restaurant (open until Sunday). The Caribbean-influenced food at this temporary restaurant is surprisingly good, especially for the Open. (In the past, I've just filled up on dried-out waffle fries from the outdoor vendors.)
Yesterday, my table ordered the giant yucca fries topped with shredded anejo cheese, perfectly seared salmon served with a corn husk in which nestled corn and crabmeat salad, and a lobster quesadilla filled with big pieces of lobster and decorated with diced mango. Also on the menu were chorizo fritters and a "churrasco" steak sandwich.
Later, I was to regret this big lunch, as I ended up at Bice (7 East 54th St., 212-688-1999) which is a favorite for many players during the Open. Last year, Roger Federer was said to order the four-cheese gnocchi every night. This year, Mardy Fish and Justin Gimelstob have been spotted, but I don't know what they order.
I had the linguini al pesto with string beans and julienned potatoes. Although tennis is just a spectator sport for me, I share one thing in common with the athletes: I carbo-load!
US Open: USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center, Flushing Meadows, Queens.
At least this year, I can drown my guilt in the mojitos at the perfectly serviceable Mojito Bar & Restaurant (open until Sunday). The Caribbean-influenced food at this temporary restaurant is surprisingly good, especially for the Open. (In the past, I've just filled up on dried-out waffle fries from the outdoor vendors.)
Yesterday, my table ordered the giant yucca fries topped with shredded anejo cheese, perfectly seared salmon served with a corn husk in which nestled corn and crabmeat salad, and a lobster quesadilla filled with big pieces of lobster and decorated with diced mango. Also on the menu were chorizo fritters and a "churrasco" steak sandwich.
Later, I was to regret this big lunch, as I ended up at Bice (7 East 54th St., 212-688-1999) which is a favorite for many players during the Open. Last year, Roger Federer was said to order the four-cheese gnocchi every night. This year, Mardy Fish and Justin Gimelstob have been spotted, but I don't know what they order.
I had the linguini al pesto with string beans and julienned potatoes. Although tennis is just a spectator sport for me, I share one thing in common with the athletes: I carbo-load!
US Open: USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center, Flushing Meadows, Queens.
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